Have you ever stepped into a building and felt the weight of the past hit you all at once? At Yerkes Observatory, touching the past of 1897 is closer than most might imagine.
Walking through the halls of the Observatory feels like following in the footsteps of some of history’s greatest minds: Carl Sagan did his graduate work at Yerkes, and Nancy Grace Roman, one of the early women of astronomy, also worked at Yerkes and later became NASA’s first Chief of Astronomy. Edwin Hubble studied at Yerkes early in his career, before going on to discover the expansion of our universe, and many other pioneering thinkers joined their ranks.
To say the least, you feel humbled—yet utterly astonished—by the men and women who contributed to what we now consider modern astrophysics. Located in Williams Bay, Wisconsin, and constructed in 1987, the observatory brings to mind the lairs of famous comic book villains and heroes, or at times, perhaps even a mad scientist’s workshop. It was the vision of a young astronomer, George Ellery Hale, who convinced a wealthy but controversial businessman, Charles T. Yerkes, to fund the world-class observatory.
Many would likely be shocked to learn that Charles Yerkes lived something of a double life. On one hand, he was a notorious con artist who cheated people out of money. On the other hand, he was a successful businessman who developed Chicago’s consolidated streetcar network (the “L”) and later the tram system in London—often through unethical practices. Known for bribery and corruption, Yerkes had earlier been convicted of embezzlement in Philadelphia for misusing municipal funds. Funding the observatory was not just a scientific venture but also a public relations effort to rehabilitate his tarnished reputation.
Several faces are carved into the terracotta columns of the observatory, including a caricature of John D. Rockefeller with an exaggerated nose. Rockefeller had funded the University of Chicago’s main campus, designed by architect Henry Ives Cobb, who later designed Yerkes Observatory.
“Sources claim that Rockefeller and Cobb didn’t get along for aesthetic reasons when Rockefeller insisted that Gothic architecture be the dominant style of the campus in opposition to Cobb’s more contemporary tastes,” according to Walt Chadick, the observatory’s Director of Programs & External Affairs, in an email to The Debrief.
“So when Cobb began to build the observatory with Charles Yerkes’ money, the architect gave Rockefeller’s twelve cartoonish faces long noses with bees or hornets sitting on the noses as a reference to the now outdated expression of ‘stinging’ someone for money,” Chadick says.
At the time, the University had been very dependent on the Standard Oil tycoon’s fortune. “Legend has it that when Rockefeller came to visit the observatory, staff chiseled off the twelve stinging bees of every nose on four of the exterior columns of the north and south entryways so as not to offend the generous benefactor,” Chadick says. “The scratch marks and obvious dark spots on top of the noses can still be seen today.”
Time Traveling Through Glass and Brass
The building’s “pièce de résistance” was its 41-inch Great Refracting Telescope, which was the largest ever built in the 1800s. The lens was crafted from glass blanks made by the French company Benoît-Clément & Co. of Paris, later polished and finished by the optical firm Alvan Clark & Sons in Massachusetts. Armed with this giant glass lens, the telescope made Yerkes a world leader in astronomy in the 1800s, marking the first transition into what would eventually become the modern field of astrophysics.
Climbing a narrow staircase leading to a single door, entering the main observatory area reveals the fully operational telescope, in an environment that makes one feel like they have time-traveled back to the nineteenth century—right down to the polished wooden floors. The circular chamber, lined with red brick and an elevated walkway, gives way to a dome that opens at the push of a button.
The 90-foot-wide observatory floor itself rises on a massive elevator. As it slowly ascends, one slowly finds themselves eye-to-eye with the telescope and ready to explore the stars—a unique design that allows astronomers to adjust their height with relation to the eyepiece by raising or lowering the entire floor.
“For the Great Refractor, we have done minimal work so far, but the efforts have greatly improved our ability to use the telescope for public observing,” said Dr. Amanda Bauer, Montgomery Foundation Deputy Director and Head of Science & Education at Yerkes Observatory, in an email to The Debrief.
“We updated the system that allows the telescope to stay focused on stars as they move across the sky. We have procured new eyepieces and cleaned the main lens of the telescope,” Bauer said. “For the huge shutters that open the dome to the sky, we refurbished the original motor that pulls on cables to slide open each shutter. We are designing a system to have easier access to the shutters for future work and maintenance.”
Saturn Bound
Among Yerkes’ many astronomical contributions, one of the most iconic was an image of Saturn taken by astronomer E.E. Barnard in 1904 using the Great Refractor.
“Saturn’s rings inspire mystery and awe, and early Yerkes astronomers released a photograph for the world to see, even selling postcards of it,” Chadick said. “They proved so popular that many copies were printed, some of which we still have.”
“Yerkes was a pioneer in astrophotography, and publications like the 1904 Saturn image helped bring astronomy to a wider audience,” he added.
Progressive Women and the Cosmos
When one thinks of Yerkes Observatory, words that come to mind include history, discovery, the cosmos, and perhaps awe. To that list we must add progressiveness—particularly regarding women in science.
In the late 1800s, women were generally barred from operating telescopes. At Yerkes, that changed. The University of Chicago was coeducational from its founding, making it possible for women to study astronomy and use the observatory’s telescopes.
Among the women leading the cultural change at Yerkes were Dr. Amanda Bauer, currently the head of science at the observatory, and the first woman to hold the position in 125 years. Bauer’s leadership continues to inspire future generations in the field of astronomy.
“I’m thrilled to be able to carry out research and train young people to harness their curiosity in technical or other fields,” Bauer told The Debrief. “Being able to work with so many artists has also been an unexpected joy. Bringing people together at the top of their fields in science, nature, history, and the arts has not only challenged and inspired me, but it has produced powerful outcomes.”
When the University of Chicago founded Yerkes Observatory in 1897, its coeducational policy gave women rare access to telescopes. Emily Dobbin became the first woman to earn an MS in astronomy there in 1903, basing her thesis on Jupiter’s fifth satellite on observations made at Yerkes.
Edwin Frost, the observatory’s second director, further opened doors by actively supporting women’s participation. While not all faculty welcomed them, Frost corresponded with women’s colleges and arranged scholarships, creating opportunities for women to study and contribute to astronomy at Yerkes.
Also among those who advanced the field was Edith Kellman, who helped develop the MKK stellar classification system and map the spiral structure of the Milky Way. These women were part of a larger legacy at Yerkes, where they worked alongside men and helped lay the foundations of American astrophysics.
Hidden Among the Lakes of Wisconsin
Tucked away on the shores of Lake Geneva, surrounded by green acreage and fresh waters, Yerkes feels like a place out of time. But in recent years, it nearly slipped into the hands of developers who proposed turning it into a spa. Thanks to the Yerkes Future Foundation, a nonprofit backed by the local community, the observatory was saved.
A major restoration launched in May 2020, addressing over a century of wear. To date, about $30 million has been raised, with another $65 million needed to complete the work. Without this effort, the building—and the history it embodies—could have been lost.
The romanticism of Yerkes Observatory is something that must be felt in person. Visitors often describe leaving with an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the brilliant minds who worked there. You feel the weight of history the moment you step inside, and the urge to return lingers long after—whether it’s the sense of stepping back into 1897 or the memory of that Willy Wonka–like rising floor.
For Bauer, the observatory and its history hold an important place not just in the history of science, but also in the development of culture and society. While visitors today are treated to a glimpse at the past, they also experience an environment that has always been rooted in a progressive outlook toward the future, where individuals have been able to learn, grow, and pursue their deep passion for science.
“I hope my legacy is to show that you can bring your whole person and all your skills and curiosities to science or any field of interest,” Bauer says.
“It’s important to work hard,” Bauer adds, “and also realize we must honor and respect all parts of ourselves and others to pursue our passions.”
Chrissy Newton is a PR professional and the founder of VOCAB Communications. She currently appears on The Discovery Channel and Max and hosts the Rebelliously Curious podcast, which can be found on YouTube and on all audio podcast streaming platforms. Follow her on X: @ChrissyNewton, Instagram: @BeingChrissyNewton, and chrissynewton.com.